I woke up one morning feeling an urge to find out more about the West Coast. I dropped into a book shop to collect a guide on the West Coast - and hit the R27. Passing Melkbos, I felt like I had boarded a plane and flown to a remote new destination. Looking around, there is just space and you can drive for miles without seeing a soul. Deserted beaches go on forever; vast sandy dunes and sparse vegetation cover the area as far as the eye can see.
As I had already been driving for over an hour I thought it was about time for a stop. I promptly turned off toward my first stop “Darling”. Known as the flower heaven during flower season, I thought it was worth exploring.
I started at The Darling museum which reflects the lifestyle and growth of the village over the century and a half since its beginnings in 1853. Although museums are not usually my thing, I found this very well done and quite enjoyed the atmosphere of finding myself in the midst of way back then.
The Museum recreates life in a bygone era with fascinating displays of Victorian clothing, china and household furniture. A traditional kitchen complete with hearth contains many ingenious gadgets intended to make the life of a Victorian housewife easier.
By then I was getting thirsty and found Ormonde Wines round the corner (in the town). A small estate with a friendly face to greet you, was just enough to wet the taste buds, with some local flavour - and they have a variety of different wines to suite every palate - at no charge.
And then of course a visit to Darling is not complete without a tour of Evita se Perron, situated at the old Darling Station. A theatre and restaurant, but if you just want to take a look and stroll through the museum/craft and gift shop – a bit of a tongue in cheek approach to South African political history.
One must take a moment to absorb the atmosphere of the town, visit some quaint antique shops and just stand still on the balcony and look around – for a while ....
On your way out, if you feeling a little peckish, stop at Alexanderfontein Estate to visit Darling Olives. You simply can’t miss out on this! Here one can enjoy a delectable tasting of local olives, tapenades, chutneys, jams, cheeses, freshly baked bread – all washed down with their estate wines. Sit around a long table in the old rustic milk barn, where one of the staff tell you all about the products while you taste and taste and taste and taste.............
On my way again back to the R27, I think of the West Coast Fossil Park. I had always heard about it, but never thought of going there. Well, today was the day to explore and do things I would not usually do...so off I went. It was easy enough to find – just follow the signs. It doesn’t look like much when you arrive, as it was once a phosphate mine. Oh my goodness was I overwhelmed at what I found! Believe it or not the West Coast it one of the richest fossil sites in the world. Some fascinating discoveries include sabre-toothed cats, a giant African bear, extinct relatives of the giraffe, three-toed horses and strange looking sivatheres to mention just a few. Today, all these animals have gone, and all we have left is their story told by the fossils that once lay buried in the rock.
The mining buildings have been converted to provide space for displays, a library, lecture room, fossil laboratory, shop and tea room.
One can join a guided tour to visit an actual dig site, and watch how they sort fossils from heaps of soil in the lab. The whole experience gives you an idea of what this area looked like 5 million years ago (who of us ever even think of that??) – This area which now is almost dessert like was once a sub-tropical forest ....fascinating!
So with my new found knowledge and hunger to learn more, I set off imagining all of this around me. Now it was time to hit the coastline. Took the first turn off I could, passing the very unattractive Saldana Steel – not the best tourist route but well worth the drive as you end up at the picturesque fishing village - Jacobsbaai. Lime-washed houses built in traditional west coast style line the shore sprinkled with rocky and sandy beaches. My favourite – there is even a hiking trail (17km) that leads from here to Tietiesbaai, the best way to enjoy this magnificent coast!
There is a great little place to eat (and the only place), looking over the water – enjoy the local cuisine and just relax and take in your surrounds.
Making my way back I drove through Langebaan ( I have been here numerous times) but had to stop and watch the kite boarders!... There is always a great atmosphere here that makes you feel excited – maybe it’s the adrenalin from the kite surfers that breezes though the air!....
Not wanting to go back onto the R27 again so instead I took the back entrance into the West Coast National Park. Suddenly over the rise I come across the biggest heard of Eland I have ever seen, 60-70 eland with calves crossing the road. In awe I just watched as they passed by – what a beautiful site. It made me want to stay and see more, but I was running out of time and had to head back to the hectic city. Just shows you, you could spend days on the west Coast and feel like you are far away. I will definitely be back to explore some more!
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