Tuesday 14 August 2012

The Route of The Original Explorers


Platteklip Gorge & The Camissa River.



The cliffs of the main plateau are split by Platteklip Gorge ("Flat Stone Gorge"), which provides an easy and direct ascent to the summit of Table Mountain and was the route taken by António de Saldanha on the first recorded ascent of the mountain in 1503. Impressed by the mountains seemingly flat top, he named it “Taboa do Cabo” – Table Mountain – a name it would never lose.

Although the path is clear, the climb is steep. There is no getting away from the fact that you have to get from 350 metres above sea level ( Tafelberg Road) to 1 020 metres at the top – a climb of just less than 700 metres, from the start, to the cairn at the top – your indication that you have made it.
If you are not sure, arrange for a mountain guide to accompany you. A guide can also add interest to your walk; history, people, stories, geological features, local flora and much, much more.

Flowing down Platteklip Gorge is a river (originally known as The Camissa River) – which deserves a mention!
I wanted to tell a story of Cape Town. For me, it's the story of the Camissa River.
The Camissa River flows down the middle of Table Mountain, down Platteklip Gorge. It is fed by water that comes from the “table cloth” - the clouds that form on the front face of the mountain. The water vapour in these clouds condenses and forms water droplets on the fynbos, rocks and ground. These droplets form a stream that flows down into what we now know as the ‘City Bowl’.
The Camissa stream used to flow all the way down through an indigenous afro-montane forest (the beauty of which is now only visible within the protected Orange Kloof area of Table Mountain National Park), nurturing our indigenous fauna and flora.
The first Dutch and English settlers to arrive in South Africa were supposed to set up in Saldanha Bay - a much safer harbour for ships - but there was something missing. They moved from Saldanha Bay to Cape Town for one reason only: the availability of fresh water.
When the settlers arrived at the Cape, they all but obliterated the indigenous Khoisan people - the original hikers of Table Mountain and the first people to drink from the Camissa River (“the place of sweet waters”.) With the enslavement of the Khoisan came the forced washing of linen by slave women for their masters. They would beat and wash this linen on a large granite rock, over which the Camissa River flows. The Dutch called it “die plat klip” (the flat rock) and it became what we now know in Afrikaans as Platteklip.
As a result of this exploitation, we have lost the real story of the Camissa, the river that provided our most basic requirement. The crystal clear, sweet waters of this river are the reason we are in Cape Town, why our parents are here. It's the reason why all the suburbs, streets and buildings are here. Our bloodlines, culture, creed, language, heritage, everything is here because of this small river that runs down the front face of Table Mountain. If it were not for this river, we would have our routes elsewhere ....
That's a beautiful Cape Town story. 

Thursday 22 March 2012

ORANGEKLOOF HIKE

We had a perfect day for a hike, fresh crisp air and lovely blue skies. There was a bit of excitement in the air as this group had never explored the beautiful Orangekloof area – so I couldn’t wait to show them what it had to offer!
The Orange Kloof area is a secluded paradise surrounded by Hout Bay in the heart of the Table Mountain National Park. This large and protected area is often described as a magical forest with valleys, hills, cliffs and rivers. This is definitely one of my favourite areas in the Cape!  The Orange Kloof area is about 285 hectares of the Table Mountain National Park and access to this area is strictly controlled and monitored. Even though this area has alien vegetation it also boasts indigenous fynbos vegetation as well as the most magnificent Afromante forest in the world… and this is why the Orange Kloof Forest is highly protected. Public access is allowed by purchasing a permit. (only 12 people per day maximum is allowed here).
The Disa River runs through Orange Kloof and originates from the Table Mountain slopes (at about 720m high). The Disa River is typical of a river in the fynbos biome; rivers in this biome are typically short, steep and fast flowing with naturally brown tea coloured water which comes from the acidity level.

Our mission was to get to the source of the Disa River! So we headed off with a spring in our stride and started our hike. The vegetation became thicker and thicker – at least it was shady as the day was becoming a scorcher. I always recommend starting early during the summer months.

Once in the valley all sight and sound of civilisation miraculously disappears and one could be miles from Cape Town. Birds singing, trickling streams, some of the most incredible mountain scenery and interesting flowers blooming around us – leaves you feeling rather refreshed.  We even spotted a crab.....This we thought looked a bit odd, as there was no stream nearby – maybe he lost his way! I later learned that Fresh Water Crabs (Potamonautes perlatus) inhabit the ponds and streams and are also seen walking overland – they can do this because they fill their gill cavity with water, which enables them to breathe as they travel overland. One learns something new on every hike – whether it be about flowers, frogs, plants, birds or fresh water crabs!

After  a group vote we then decided on the more adventurous route – and scrambled up the Disa River bed, rather than the ordinary path. I love a little adventure! Being late February the river was dry enough and not to slippery.  As one scrambles your way up the ravine – you are speechless as the beauty of your surroundings overwhelm you – twisted ropes hang from above, magnificent canopies of trees –Yellowwoods, Ironwoods, Assegaaibos (all indigenous) and an amazing variety of ferns. These forests still contain a variety of endemic plants and animals that occur nowhere else in the world.

Fewer fires have occurred in Orange Kloof National Forest compared to other parts of the Table Mountain National Park making some of the trees and vegetation in this area the oldest in Cape Town. This area has remained un-burnt for over 30 years – another reason that this forest is highly protected!

Carefully placing your feet on the rocks and navigating our way up the steep banks definitely worked up a great appetite – so it was time for lunch. We sat ourselves down under the now very dry-(just a trickling) waterfall with only a puddle of water – I  remembered this same spot in mid Winter gushing with water- it is spectacular!  Depending on the seasons, one can see completely different scenes (plants, animals,butterflies etc) . Taking in our surrounds one becomes speechless, as you appreciate the quietness.....and extreme lush beauty all around. After a leisurely lunch we set off again refuelled and energised. I walked straight into a great big spider web!!! ..Not a very nice feeling.....! The orb-web spiders are not poisonous, so I was relieved!

Reaching the top of the Gorge one needs to pause and take in the scenery! After a bit of heavy bush scrambling, we decided to explore the entrance to the Woodhead tunnel – This is a 640 metre tunnel that goes right through Table Mountain from Orange Kloof to Slangolie Ravine. It was built between 1888 and 1891 in order to divert the water from the Disa River to the Pipe Track and hence to the Molteno reservoir in Cape Town.
Although it has been out of use for some time, parts of the tunnel can still be seen.
A little further along – we investigated the Apostle Tunnel which also goes through the mountain and comes out above “Dangerous Ascent” near Woody Ravine (above Camps Bay).

After a bit of excitement we carried on. To our surprise, we found some beautiful Red Disa’s in bloom – magnificent! It always makes me happy to see these very rare flowers in abundance – sticking to the sides of very damp cliffs.  They only bloom in the first few months of the year – also known as “The Pride of Table Mountain”.

As we reached the top, we could feel the sun baking down on us and where very grateful for the canopy of trees for most of the way. The dense forest eventually gives way to Cape Fynbos and more interesting flowers.  A few minutes later, we looked up and saw the massive dam wall – we had reached the top. Before devouring some wild mulberries to give us that extra bit of energy to climb the stairs – we climbed the last section to the top.
Reaching the top is always a great feeling of accomplishment – endorphins, sunshine, fresh air, magnificent beauty all around and of course the great conversation along the way.

I always get reminded that this is by far one of the most beautiful and exclusive hikes in Cape Town. Everyone was thrilled!





We had a perfect day for a hike, fresh crisp air and lovely blue skies. There was a bit of excitement in the air as this group had never explored the beautiful Orangekloof area – so I couldn’t wait to show them what it had to offer!
The Orange Kloof area is a secluded paradise surrounded by Hout Bay in the heart of the Table Mountain National Park. This large and protected area is often described as a magical forest with valleys, hills, cliffs and rivers. This is definitely one of my favourite areas in the Cape!  The Orange Kloof area is about 285 hectares of the Table Mountain National Park and access to this area is strictly controlled and monitored. Even though this area has alien vegetation it also boasts indigenous fynbos vegetation as well as the most magnificent Afromante forest in the world… and this is why the Orange Kloof Forest is highly protected. Public access is allowed by purchasing a permit. (only 12 people per day maximum is allowed here).
The Disa River runs through Orange Kloof and originates from the Table Mountain slopes (at about 720m high). The Disa River is typical of a river in the fynbos biome; rivers in this biome are typically short, steep and fast flowing with naturally brown tea coloured water which comes from the acidity level.

Our mission was to get to the source of the Disa River! So we headed off with a spring in our stride and started our hike. The vegetation became thicker and thicker – at least it was shady as the day was becoming a scorcher. I always recommend starting early during the summer months.

Once in the valley all sight and sound of civilisation miraculously disappears and one could be miles from Cape Town. Birds singing, trickling streams, some of the most incredible mountain scenery and interesting flowers blooming around us – leaves you feeling rather refreshed.  We even spotted a crab.....This we thought looked a bit odd, as there was no stream nearby – maybe he lost his way! I later learned that Fresh Water Crabs (Potamonautes perlatus) inhabit the ponds and streams and are also seen walking overland – they can do this because they fill their gill cavity with water, which enables them to breathe as they travel overland. One learns something new on every hike – whether it be about flowers, frogs, plants, birds or fresh water crabs!

After  a group vote we then decided on the more adventurous route – and scrambled up the Disa River bed, rather than the ordinary path. I love a little adventure! Being late February the river was dry enough and not to slippery.  As one scrambles your way up the ravine – you are speechless as the beauty of your surroundings overwhelm you – twisted ropes hang from above, magnificent canopies of trees –Yellowwoods, Ironwoods, Assegaaibos (all indigenous) and an amazing variety of ferns. These forests still contain a variety of endemic plants and animals that occur nowhere else in the world.

Fewer fires have occurred in Orange Kloof National Forest compared to other parts of the Table Mountain National Park making some of the trees and vegetation in this area the oldest in Cape Town. This area has remained un-burnt for over 30 years – another reason that this forest is highly protected!

Carefully placing your feet on the rocks and navigating our way up the steep banks definitely worked up a great appetite – so it was time for lunch. We sat ourselves down under the now very dry-(just a trickling) waterfall with only a puddle of water – I  remembered this same spot in mid Winter gushing with water- it is spectacular!  Depending on the seasons, one can see completely different scenes (plants, animals,butterflies etc) . Taking in our surrounds one becomes speechless, as you appreciate the quietness.....and extreme lush beauty all around. After a leisurely lunch we set off again refuelled and energised. I walked straight into a great big spider web!!! ..Not a very nice feeling.....! The orb-web spiders are not poisonous, so I was relieved!

Reaching the top of the Gorge one needs to pause and take in the scenery! After a bit of heavy bush scrambling, we decided to explore the entrance to the Woodhead tunnel – This is a 640 metre tunnel that goes right through Table Mountain from Orange Kloof to Slangolie Ravine. It was built between 1888 and 1891 in order to divert the water from the Disa River to the Pipe Track and hence to the Molteno reservoir in Cape Town.
Although it has been out of use for some time, parts of the tunnel can still be seen.
A little further along – we investigated the Apostle Tunnel which also goes through the mountain and comes out above “Dangerous Ascent” near Woody Ravine (above Camps Bay).

After a bit of excitement we carried on. To our surprise, we found some beautiful Red Disa’s in bloom – magnificent! It always makes me happy to see these very rare flowers in abundance – sticking to the sides of very damp cliffs.  They only bloom in the first few months of the year – also known as “The Pride of Table Mountain”.

As we reached the top, we could feel the sun baking down on us and where very grateful for the canopy of trees for most of the way. The dense forest eventually gives way to Cape Fynbos and more interesting flowers.  A few minutes later, we looked up and saw the massive dam wall – we had reached the top. Before devouring some wild mulberries to give us that extra bit of energy to climb the stairs – we climbed the last section to the top.
Reaching the top is always a great feeling of accomplishment – endorphins, sunshine, fresh air, magnificent beauty all around and of course the great conversation along the way.

I always get reminded that this is by far one of the most beautiful and exclusive hikes in Cape Town. Everyone was thrilled!