Joanna Jayne - on an unplanned exploration of FRANSCHHOEK – one of the most beautiful valleys in the world.

Waking up on Sunday realising that Monday was a public holiday, I felt the need to make the most of it.  I decided that Capescape needed to explore Franschhoek.

 So, I set off with enthusiasm to find places where tour buses can not go. I wanted to go deep off the beaten track.....no crowds!!

Driving down Franschhoek’s  Main Street  always sets the mood.... the distinct and quaint atmosphere, French restaurants and oak trees lining the street, curio markets, Cape Dutch buildings etc....so I got out to take it in for a minute. I however got straight back in my car to quench my desire to find something new and away from the tourist trap that I had found myself in.

Driving out passing the inspiring Huguenot Monument, I turned onto a little gravel road with a sign that read “La Bri”, only to learn that this was actually one of the oldest farms in the area and was once owned by a French Huguenot in 1694. I quite liked tracing the roots of the first Huguenots that settled in this beautiful valley. And looking around to think of all that happened on this soil and stories that could be told, if only the ancient old oak trees could talk!   As I made my way up to the tasting room and cellar I ran into the farm manager, who mentioned to me that there was also an old tasting room on the estate.

Not wanting to miss out on anything that could enhance my experience I enthusiastically asked more. “Come let me show you” was music to my ears. Hastily I followed him through a gap in the hedge onto an open lawn with a beautiful Cape Dutch manor house towering over us. The oak trees gave us ample shade as it was one of those over 30 degrees days in the winelands and not a breath of wind.  Fumbling with some keys he made his way to a small doorway covered in ivy, that looked like it hadn’t been opened for years.(which I really don’t think it had). Inside were dusty old wine bottles, stained wine barrels and rusty old farm equipment that was literally covered in cob webs. Breathing in that old musty wine smell, I was beginning to really feel the spirit of the real winelands.

As I drove out over the small bridge I knew I had found a place less frequented and would definitely be back.  Continuing along up towards to mountain I found Colmant - Cap Classic & Champagne (Only produce Cape Classic on the estate – and import Champagne)  –  it might have been the word “champagne” that caught my attention! With a rather fresh, French appearance that was quite welcoming I made my way towards the cellar. Apparently only open by appointment only I thought I would take a chance and see if I could convince them to give me a tasting....well, there was not much convincing as I had timed my visit appropriately well, with another couple.  Sipping on some yummy bubbles I was greeted by the wine maker himself, and even managed to order 6 bottles of the best Brut Rose, as I could not miss out – apparently they are sold out 36hours after opening sales – WOW!

Having these bubbles rushing around my head, I just wanted more excitement!!!! Where to next??... Even further up a gravel road to discover a little gem. I knew this was the place where one will never find a tour bus or herds of tourists as driving over a thin “stoney” bridge does not allow for it.  Stoney Brook – nestled under the towering mountains with fantastic surroundings. We were greeted by the owner herself. And what a great informative tasting she gave us. Giving us complete insight into each wine and where the name comes from, I must admit she really did quench my thirst for knowledge on wine making and good wine.  Enjoying the tranquil, quiet environment and I almost couldn’t leave. Do admire the huge “Ghost Gum” tree before you leave!.....

Driving up the Franschhoek pass to capture the beautiful view over the valley, I couldn’t help but be distracted by the festiveness outside the Haute Cabriere cellar. The barrels under the bright red umbrellas were surrounded by happy smiles and decadent ice buckets of Cap Classic (Champagne)..... Yum! 

Walking inside the cellar to order myself a glass, I came across a rather fancy restaurant inside, this was going to be the place for dinner! .....

Settling down outside to enjoy the sunset with my now, bottle of Cap Classic! Taking in the magnificent view, you can’t  imagine where else you would rather be. 

Dinner was fantastic; the cellar restaurant is built into the flank of the mountain and has a glass wall at the back of the restaurant overlooking the barrels in the cellar. One can order each gourmet dish, either as a starter, or as a full portion. So, if you are not quite sure what to eat, you can try a combination of tastes and order few different dishes, which is exactly what we did. So many different delectable taste sensations!!  From fresh Salmon trout bred and grown in the cold mountain streams to succulent lamb and game from the Karoo. The combination of fine wine and food, the elegance of the underground venue and the breath-taking views makes this an unforgettable experience.  It may be a touch touristy, but for such delicious food I can make an exception.....and I can see why everyone raves about Franschhoek having some of the best restaurants in the Cape.

This little expedition will not be the last as we have only touched on what the winelands has to offer, so stick around and Capescape will share unique experiences and character boutique wineries, - off the beaten track. 

Don’t just be a number, waiting to board a tour bus.....come with us for a decadent and unforgettable experience – on the road much less travelled.

*Joanna Jayne is the Owner of Capescape Private Tours (- and Guided Mountain Walks) and is always keen to explore and share the beauty of the Cape with her clients.

THE BEST KEPT SECRETS OF THE WEST COAST

I woke up one morning feeling an urge to find out more about the West Coast. I dropped into a book shop to collect a guide on the West Coast - and hit the R27. Passing Melkbos, I felt like I had boarded a plane and flown to a remote new destination.  Looking around, there is just space and you can drive for miles without seeing a soul.  Deserted beaches go on forever; vast sandy dunes and sparse vegetation cover the area as far as the eye can see.

As I had already been driving for over an hour I thought it was about time for a stop. I promptly turned off toward my first stop “Darling”. Known as the flower heaven during flower season, I thought it was worth exploring.

 I started at The Darling museum which reflects the lifestyle and growth of the village over the century and a half since its beginnings in 1853. Although museums are not usually my thing, I found this very well done and quite enjoyed the atmosphere of finding myself in the midst of way back then.

The Museum recreates life in a bygone era with fascinating displays of Victorian clothing, china and household furniture. A traditional kitchen complete with hearth contains many ingenious gadgets intended to make the life of a Victorian housewife easier.

By then I was getting thirsty and found Ormonde Wines round the corner (in the town).  A small estate with a friendly face to greet you, was just enough to wet the taste buds, with some local flavour - and they have a variety of different wines to suite every palate - at no charge.

And then of course a visit to Darling is not complete without a tour of Evita se Perron,  situated at the old Darling Station. A theatre and restaurant, but if you just want to take a look and stroll through the museum/craft and gift shop – a bit of a tongue in cheek approach to  South African political history.

One must take a moment to absorb the atmosphere of the town,  visit some quaint antique shops and just stand still on the balcony and look around – for a while ....

On your way out, if you feeling a little peckish, stop at Alexanderfontein Estate to visit Darling Olives. You simply can’t miss out on this! Here one can enjoy a delectable tasting of local olives, tapenades, chutneys, jams, cheeses, freshly baked bread – all washed down with their estate wines. Sit around a long table in the old rustic milk barn, where one of the staff tell you all about the products while you taste and taste and taste and taste.............

On my way again back to the R27, I think of the West Coast Fossil Park. I had always heard about it, but never thought of going there. Well, today was the day to explore and do things I would not usually do...so off I went. It was easy enough to find – just follow the signs. It doesn’t look like much when you arrive, as it was once a phosphate mine. Oh my goodness was I overwhelmed at what I found! Believe it or not the West Coast it one of the richest fossil sites in the world. Some fascinating discoveries include sabre-toothed cats, a giant African bear, extinct relatives of the giraffe, three-toed horses and strange looking sivatheres to mention just a few.  Today, all these animals have gone, and all we have left is their story told by the fossils that once lay buried in the rock.

The mining buildings have been converted to provide space for displays, a library, lecture room, fossil laboratory,  shop and tea room.

One can join a guided tour to visit an actual dig site, and watch how they sort fossils from heaps of soil in the lab. The whole experience gives you an idea of what this area looked like 5 million years ago (who of us ever even think of that??) – This area which now is almost dessert like was once a sub-tropical forest ....fascinating!

So with my new found knowledge and hunger to learn more, I set off imagining all of this around me.  Now it was time to hit the coastline. Took the first turn off I could, passing the very unattractive Saldana Steel – not the best tourist route but well worth the drive as you end up at the picturesque fishing village -  Jacobsbaai.  Lime-washed houses built in traditional west coast style line the shore sprinkled with rocky and sandy beaches. My favourite – there is even a hiking trail (17km) that leads from here to Tietiesbaai, the best way to enjoy this magnificent coast!

There is a great little place to eat (and the only place), looking over the water – enjoy the local cuisine and just relax and take in your surrounds.

Making my way back I drove through Langebaan ( I have been here numerous times) but had to stop and watch the kite boarders!... There is always a great atmosphere here that makes you feel excited – maybe it’s the adrenalin from the kite surfers that breezes though the air!....

 Not wanting to go back onto the R27 again so instead I took the back entrance into the West Coast National Park.  Suddenly over the rise I come across the biggest heard of Eland I have ever seen, 60-70 eland with calves crossing the road. In awe I just watched as they passed by – what a beautiful site. It made me want to stay and see more, but I was running out of time and had to head back to the hectic city. Just shows you, you could spend days on the west Coast and feel like you are far away. I will definitely be back to explore some more!